Showing posts with label sight. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sight. Show all posts

Wednesday

Sight: Chasing the Moment

Chasing the Moment is a revamped recent addition to the Arcola Theatre and Time Out 4 star play. It takes two distinct halves - the before and after of an East London jazz gig performed during the intermission by 4 members of an un-named (I think) band.

We've a middle-aged nihilist pianist, modish opinionated young saxophonist, drunkard Yorkshire Double-bassist (think Compo from last of the summer wine) and level headed easy going young drummer. Oh, he's also black - not that it matters these days, we're over that.

Or maybe we're not... as shortly into the second half we plummet into a shouting match between him and the pianist about the authenticity of jazz and it's black vs white origins. It's executed with emotional discomfort but that's soon drowned out with a physically uncomfortable screaming exchange.

Throw in a useless ex-girlfriend, unseen venue-owner on critical life-support in St Thomas', his drunk in-denial wife and after it runs out of breath, steam and predictability the only tension left is how long it will take for them all to leave us alone.

Saturday

Touch: Teotihuacán Pyramids

One hour outside of Mexico DF is one of the country's most popular tourist attractions; Teotihuacán.
It features in all the brochures, things to do lists, suggested trips and concierge recommendations but with an early 9am visit it's possible to avoid the expected touristic influx and enjoy the place with anticipated calm.

the Teotihuacán people ran most of central Mexico in its early history. In 200BC or so they dragged together (literally) this large city and the 52 pyramids that surround it - reason not quite known.

A few civilizations including the Mixtec and Mayans enjoyed dancing around the pyramids a couple thousand years ago peacefully pleasing their gods. Then the Aztecs wade in and throw their severed heads down the many steps Apocalyto style. This didn't last too long before a civil uprising wiped the city out and left it in ruin.

The largest and most impressive feature is the temple of the Sun; third largest pyramid in the world, very worthy of a triumphant climb. By mid morning it and the other large pyrmaid (moon) look like a mucky pair of mole-hills covered in camera-toting ants.

Even though this is Mexico DF's largest attraction, Teotihuacan still feels largely untouched. Supposedly anything not in a red-clay colour has been restored but really its not impressive due to its detailed beauty (close-up the pyramids are quite ghastly) but the scale on which the city was built and the oft-badly answered question - why?

The crisp morning was definitely a good and earthly time to visit however the flat light, grey earth and even greyer-sky didn't help take a good photo. If you can stand the tourism a sunset image would better suit the long term record.

Sight: Lucha Libre

Every friday, thousands of Mexicans flock to a seedy part of town and into L'Arena stadium to see the Luchadors wrestle.

Outside the stadium is teeming with fans, peddlers, stalls, trucks, food, animals. Everybody and their donkey has come to see tonight's series of fights in the squared circle. Five thousand people are climging over each other to see their favorites go head to head. Luckily the throng is in high spirits and we westerners are welcomed with broad smiles and a £3.50 ticket.

Mexico adopted the US form of Kayfabe entertainment in the 1940's. They added identity hiding masks and replaced heavyweight power-moves with high flying acrobatics. The main wrestlers are treated as heroes. "he was an orphan child, cleaning the locker room - sparring for fun with the big guys, now he's the best in the world" one ecstatic fan told me when I asked why everybody goes bananas when Mystico entered the arena.

The wrestling is of amazing quality. We're led through a series of bouts - each character struts out to themed music, fireworks and a trademark pose. Hilarious.
Action is hard-hitting and although we all know they setting up (or selling) each other the moves their abilities are hugely impressive - we're all yelling and chanting along with the full house.

Before long out pops our Hero, Mystico, for the final match. After a sequence of twists and turns including broken chairs, knocked out referees, 8 foot dives and bloody chests its 1-2-3 and victory to the champion and happy faces all round.

Brilliant fun and not to be missed on a Friday night. This was the Mexico DF highlight.

Consejo Mundial de Lucha Libre:
http://www.cmll.com/

Wednesday

Sight: Michael Palin

About his new book "Diaries 1967-1979: The Python Years" Michael Palin chatted to an observer interviewer in front of a full 700 seater auditorium, Logan Hall, UCL.
We were lucky ticket holders and go there early for good seats - not quite as good as John Cleese (front row) who eventually dismissed a gathering crowd of fans - but good enough.

Michael answered the questions in his own endearing way and we all smiled back the whole time. The focus was on Monty Python although the questions were aptly paced to cover a range of subjecs. We learnt how the diaries came about (firstly a self-chastised waste of time to start, then after two years, a humongous waste of time if stopped), how they explained his difficult times with the movies and onwards to the ongoing legacy of Python and reflecting on where it has brought him

I'm on the cusp of being too young for Monty Python and really, The Michael Palin I know and admire is the traveler (80 days, Pole to Pole, Full Circle etc). Fortunately, amongst the typical USA Q&As; what's you favorite scene (fish slapping dance), character (Crucifixion Coordinator), sound effect("Ni")? were some interesting points about his trips, how nothing is embellished as you'd expect and his desire to have stayed in touch with some characters without whom the journeys would've come crashing down.

Wishing for more the evening came to an end... well except for 4 hours of book-signing we decided to sidestep.

Thursday

Taste: Les Trois Garcons

Nestled silent and unrecognisable at the City end of Bethnal Green, Les Trois Garcons could be one of 100 wholesale stores or barely used warehouses. It is the creation of three antique dealers as part of a trio of venues including Lounge Lovers and Annex 3. At night only two burning flames gives indication of its presence at number 1 Club Row.

Inside, from the macabre greeting onwards the contrast between this and the real world outside overwhelms. The ambiance is as if the elitist animals turned down Noah and instead went out for a burlesque night at and old Truman Pub. There's a smoking chimp sat by the entrance, white Bengal tiger over the coat-rack, hammer-head shark above the bar, dolphin by the stairs and giraffe's head peering over the rear tables. All stuffed and wearing elaborate pieces of jewelery; tiaras, necklaces, chains of crystals, entire-body sequins.

The spectacle is a process of accumulation; rows of vintage handbags hang from the ceiling, oversize pocket watch on the wall, white swan on the bar and... is that a painting of thousands of people naked, crossing a mountain? (yes it is!) Each glance reveals a new abomination that adds to quite a pre-meal ocular feast.

But there's no time to soak it in, a must-be intentionally abrupt waiter butts in to announce the specials as if reading from the complete works. On a table with a USA advantage this could have added a lead balloon to the antiquities. This time the euphoric environment had made everybody giddy enough to laugh it off. "how quaint!". Service is as pomp and exaggerated as the surrounds - waiters swanning around, noses flung impossibly high.

The menu (French) is not out-faced by the environment either. 2 Fois Gras starters out of 6 can't be wrong. Every elaborate dish is painstakingly presented. The terrine sits across a line of black pepper from a 5" mini chef's hat of bread - kept upright by red-current jelly foundations. For the soup you're brought a bowled shaving of vegetables, drowned at the table, presumably giving context to what's swimming around. The effects are mouth watering and the food doesn't disappoint.

Up until my first visit the taste of good steak carried fond memories of Argentine Parillas. The Scottish Fillet here has ruined this for good. In replacement, out of spite, I have ordered the same every time. Fortunately the menu changes once in while with revisions to the small vegetable offerings (progress... according to the wait staff) Even more fortunately on this occasion the special was a 350 gram sirloin, larger, juicier and almost as tender, however accompanied by a slightly too rich dressing. The rest of the menu is surely up for exploration and don't forget to save room for desert.

Les Trois Garcons is a popular celebrity-endorsed venue, don't expect a table this week and it's obvious why. It represents the money-for-old-rope success outsiders think of the east end and exactly what insiders are here for - gems in the rough.
Context, ambiance, service, presentation, food this restaurant unconventionally has all the fives and is worthy of my vote for No1...

Les Trois Garcons
1 Club Row
London E1 6JX (map)
+44 (0)20 7613 1924
http://www.lestroisgarcons.co.uk/

Tuesday

Sight: Battersea Powerstation

Battersea power station has been in its present form for long enough down in that no-mans-land part of town. Now it's time for it to join the other riverside monsters and be converted into a modern-day monument to mind-bending internal spaces.

They're pitching it to be a magnet for commerce, trend and whatever else. Intended knock-on being the whole of London tripping South of the river to hang around and gaze at those four white towers - two rebuilt and one topped with a private viewing bubble (if you believe the masterplan 3D flyover) On the day we went, however, it didn't look to be off on the right foot... but maybe the rain had put people off.

Pity them. During the downpour was undoubtedly the best time to admire the soaked remains of the power-giant. the dank open-topped main hall echoing watery splashes and drips with the occasional waterfall pouring from an open wound of I-beams and brick up high. A rickety walk out over the space was worth the 10min queue (but perhaps not 3 hours when first opened).

Further into the building came the real exhibition although certainly not the real attraction. A walk up 4 stories of gutted work-floors revealed long lines of looping Chinese videos making little sense to us although surely the point. The highlight - a mesh wall of thousands of slowly rotting apples - the room smelt like an evil incarnation of the Body Shop.

Rent-a-mob security helped keep an industrial and impersonal feel to the visit. After being pointed down a long series of construction-site style staircases we were ejected back into the pouring rain.

A quick dash over to the old Serpentine Gallery relocated to here as a Yautcha revealed the expected condensed and steamy sweat-box too busy for consideration, cornered by a gift shop with positively the most odd collection of items including replica FIFA, Nobel and Emmy awards at £85 each.

This is an unmissable photo opportunity (although the wet and no-camera warnings [ignore] kept mine at home) and may just be a better and certainly more intriguing experience than the future development.