Taste: Kettners

Down at the deep end of Soho on Romilly Street, Kettners ( promises to be a standard paint-by-numbers hotel lounge. Lurking behind a huge leather clad waiting area/bar is a bright, well dressed restaurant who's view is spoiled only by those buildings across the road turning their backs in favour of Shaftsbury Avenue.

Lunch menu is of a good size, skewed heavily towards pizzas and burgers, the former helping this place stand out amongst the paint-by-numbers crowd found elsewhere in town, supposedly renowned for use of quality Angus. I had a suitably named, but forgotten, variation with pate (and a sprig of bacon) which was undoubtedly the heaviest (physically) burger I've ever held. It seemed expensive when staring back at me from an otherwise empty plate but worth every penny on the way in.

As one-thirty approached the place livened up and a pianist slid in to accompany the chatter. The lounge on the way out full of single well-dressed diners was a strangely pleasurable sight.

29 Romilly Street
Soho, London
W1D 5HP (map)
+44 (0)20 7734 6112

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