Friday

Taste: Wild Honey

A little way into Mayfair, In what used to be the Drones Members Club, Wild Honey has just opened. Its the next restaurant from Will Smith and Anthony Demetre, who must be busting for more after the successes of Arbutus. They've slotted into the existing location with minimal fuss around the elegant throwback ambiance, dark oak panels and intimidatingly long bar dominating the entranceway (a good choice for a couple). Happily they've taken away the over sized mobile-orrery light fittings that made the Drone's club feel like a grown-up's cot. The dining room is well tended by French accents and has an understated air, not too business-bland.

The lunch menu is printed on a single sheet of A4 and I must admit to finding this far more palatable than a book - having only a handful of options inspires confidence in their abilities (greasy spoons aside). Printed on another sheet is the wine list. Like Arbutus, almost all choices are served by the 250ml carafe, most lurking around the £10-£15 mark. For sure its an apparent-value approach but one that works "would you like to try a different one?" we're asked as the first slips away - "most guests do".

Set lunch at £15.50 is not to be sniffed at. There wouldn't be time anyway as the top-veal arrives pronto and is consumed almost as quickly - delicious. Its followed by another carafe (Reisling this time) and then onto well presented beef rib. Perhaps it's a little on the fleshy side - some thing I'm quite partial to as a northerner.

Wild Honey is a business lunch venue that's not too heavy on the business and all about the lunch. A welcome addition to the circuit and looking forwards to trying out the evening menu.

Wild Honey
12 St George St
W1S 2FB
Mayfair
020 7758 9160
http://www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk/

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