Taste: Bistrotheque

Down an unassuming street in an inconspicuous part of East London Bistrotechque is apparent only in the evening by a dropping-off line of taxis. It feels out of place surrounded by a commercial estate, but that's surely why we're here - and it draws the crowds.

The building is split into three; bar, restaurant and venue (transvestite cabaret anyone?). Pre-dinner drink in the bar revealed a sticky-local, except its an Ikea bar put in a warehouse. The standard visitors look like they've walked straight out of a Brit-pop convention. Friendly enough.

Up the stairs to the restaurant. Whitewash walls and scale-model of the area, you're expecting a temporary art installation. Not far from the truth, it's like a temporary restaurant exhibition. Two big open spaces split by a stainless steel kitchen, bare bulbs, white tiled walls and no decoration beyond silver cutlery. It must cost all of a fiver to clean in the evening.

Every expense is spared, even the menu is printed on the place-mat and is about as complex as spot-the-dog. The options are simply put and easy on the vocabulary, you won't be asking much from the waiter: Fish and Chips, Pea Puree, Tartare Sauce is top of the list.

We went for seabass and monkfish all prepared and presented well but nothing outstanding at this price. The focus again, is on simplicity and they've got it right, however at this level its something that could be done at home with some effort and a tidy house.

23-27 Wadeson Street
E2 9DR (map)
+44 (0)20 8983 7900

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